Woven Fabric Structure Design and Product Planning: (Woodhead Publishing India in Textiles)

Table of Contents:
Dedication Preface Introduction to fabric structure The process of fabric formation Important parts of loom Heald shafts Sley or lay Shuttle Shuttle box Picker Reed Warp beam Back beam Breast beam Cloth beam Passage of warp through loom General features of fabric Group I: Classification with respect tothreads per unit area Group II: Classification with respect to weave Elements of fabric Body vs selvedge Face vs back Warp and weft Width and weight Expression of weight Weave Threads/unit area (reed pick) and cover Yarn crimp (woven fabric) Fabric shrinkage Method of notation of structure or design Weave repeat Selection of reed and its importance Elements of fabric structure Design or interlacement fashion (discussion iswith respect to weaving only) Draft or drawing plan or drawing in draft Lifting plan or peg plan Type of relation among elements of fabric structure Construction of elements of fabric structure Construction of draft from design Notation for draft calculation of numberof heald shafts and methods of draft indication Construction of design from draft and peg plan Construction of peg plan from design and draft (Fig. 1.10) Construction of draft from design and peg plan Types of draft in weaving Straight draft Point draft Skip draft Broken draft Sateen draft Divided draft Grouped draft Curved drafts Combined draft Practical aspects of fabric designing Illustrative example for calculations in weaving Exercises for students Multiple choice questions; select the correct answer Write answers to the following in 2 or 3 sentences Essay type questions; write answers to the following References Classification of weaves and study of plain weave Characteristics of weaves Classification of weaves Classification of single-layered fabrics Rib and cord effects in plain weave(without weave modification) Modifications of plain weave Necessity Modification of plain in warp way - warp rib[Figs. 2.1(a)-(f)] Weaving arrangement Applications of warp rib Commercial significance of ribs production Production of weft rib or moreen[Figs. 2.2(a)-(d')] Hair cords Matt, hopsack or basket weaves and fabrics Modification of matt: fancy matt and stitchedhopsack (Figs. 2.4-2.7) Poplin and repp fabrics Figured repps Classification of plain cloths Basis of classification of plain cloths Based on construction Based on weight Based on cover factor Based on weight factor Approximately square plain cloths Light-weight square plain cloths Cotton dairy cloth Cotton cheesecloth Cotton cloth for electrical insulation Cotton tracing cloth Cotton filter cloth Cotton typewriter ribbon fabric Bleached linen cambric Spun viscose dress fabric Filament nylon blouse andlingerie fabric Filament nylon overall fabric Medium-weight square plain cloths Cotton sheeting Heavy-weight square plain fabrics Light-weight cotton duck Heavy-weight cotton duck Thorn-proof tweed Warp-faced plain cloths Terylene shirting Acetate dress poult Cotton poplin Cotton canvas for sports shoes Cotton canvas for conveyor belts Weft-faced plain cloth Cotton limbric Cotton casement cloth Cotton-mohair lining fabric Voile fabrics Twill weaves and their modification Twill weaves Principle of construction Characteristics of twill weaves Classification or types of twills Balanced and unbalanced twills Construction of right hand (z) andleft hand (s) twills Stage-by-stage construction of twills Effect of change in footing Angle of a twill Modification of twill weaves Rearranged twills on sateen base Transposed twills Combined twills End-to-end combined twills Weaving arrangement Pick-to-pick combination Steep and flat twills Pointed or wavy or zigzag twills Weaving arrangements Herringbone twills Diamonds and diaper twills Weaving arrangement Broken twills Skip twills Special twill from plain derivatives Twist-twill interaction (emphasizing a twill) Commercial twills [Figs. 3.18(a)-(e)] Three-end twills Four-end twills Five-end twill Exercises for students Sateen and satin weaves Introduction and characteristics Types of sateen Construction of sateen Examples on weft sateen Construction of warp satin weaves Draft and peg plan for sateens or satins Modification of sateen Satin stripes Satin checks Colour-and-weave effects Principles of colour-and-weave effects Examples on colour and weave effect Development of coloured stripe forplain with 1:1 colouring Development of patterns with compoundcolouring Development of dogstooth and houndstooth Stepped twill Birds eye view Stripe and check effect Glen checks Exercises I. Choose the correct answer from the alternatives given II. Answer the following questions Huck-a-back weaves Scope of huck-a-back weaves Characteristics of huck-a-back toweling fabrics (requirements of water absorption) Systematic construction of huck-a-back weave Point paper representation [Figs. 6.1(a)-(j)] Modification of ordinary huck-a-back Weaving arrangements Beaming, counts of yarns and typeof loom Drawing and denting arrangements Research studies on huck-a-back weave Honeycomb weaves Features of honeycomb How it absorbs water? Classification of HC Construction of ordinary HC Simple ordinary HC (OHC) Ends leaded HC [Figs. 6.2(d)and (d )] Picks leaded HC [Figs. 6.2(e)and (e )] Straight drafted HC Brighton HC Why honeycomb is called athree-dimensional structure? Ornamentation in HC Distinction between OHC and BHC Reference Mock leno and distorted effects Scope Counts of yarn Construction of design for perforated fabrics(principle of turn down) How exactly the openness is produced(weaving|arrangement) [Figs. 7.1(d) and (e)] Ornamentation of mock leno Distorted thread effect Exercise Answer the following questions in not more than six sentences Crepe surface and crepe weaves (Oatmeal) Construction of crepe weaves On staeen base [Figs. 8.1(a) and (b)] By reversing small tufts (principle of turn down) By superimposing By combining a plain weave with a floating weave Production of crepe yarns Control of crepe figure Dimensional stability Examples of crepe fabrics Bedford cords and piques Scope RTP Warp way Weft way Classification of bedford cords Simple or plain-faced bedford cords[Figs. 9.1(a)-(e)] Bedford cord with alternate picks Wadded bedford cords Wadding ends and their arrangementin weaving Twill-faced bedford cords [Figs. 9.1(i)-(k)] Denting Drafting Welts or piques Types of threads and their arrangement (RTP) Classification of piques Simple or plain pique(single face or groundand cutting picks) Loose back and fast back piques Wadded and backed pique How exactly the wadding picks are madeto lie at centre [Figs. 9.2(e) and (e')] Waved piques Weaving arrangements for piques Denting Drafting Loom equipment Distinction between bedford cords and piques Exercises Answer the following questions in two to four sentences Ornamentation of fabrics What is meant by ornamentation? Principles of ornamentation Approaches for ornamentation of plain cloths Use of colour Use of fibres varying in geometry and substrate By varying twist By Varying count, sett and twist Cockled, blistered and seersucker effects Tension differences: seersucker Differential shrinkage Special finishes Index

About the Author :
Dr J. Hayavadana has completed 27 years of teaching and has supervised 35 PhD Thesis, and was external examiner for 30 PhD candidates. He has published a number of papers in National journals and fi ve papers in International journals; currently serving as a reviewer of International journals. From the past three years, he is teaching Lean and Six Sigma to the UG and PG students. He has served as Board of studies Member for various Indian Universities and currently he is BOS member of M.S. University, Baroda. Author has designed several Textile Testing Instruments of laboratory use and applying for Patents.