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Home > Biographies & Memoire > Biography and non-fiction prose > Biography: general > Jean-Paul Gaultier, Punk Sentimental
Jean-Paul Gaultier, Punk Sentimental

Jean-Paul Gaultier, Punk Sentimental


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About the Book

Travailleur forcene, quinquagenaire facetieux, Jean-Paul Gaultier a debute dans la carriere en recyclant tout et n'importe quoi: des boites de conserve, des fauteuils de cuir uses, de la paille et de la peluche. Ses premiers defiles sont improvises, voire rates. Mais il ose... L'excentricite devient des 1978 un label frenchy grace a lui. Il flaire les mouvements de societe, explicite cette curieuse formule: la mode vient de la rue, euphorise et dope le monde glace du stylisme. Le premier, il fait defiler noires et beurettes, boulottes et femmes du troisieme age. Les categories traditionnelles du laid et du beau sont grace a lui, definitivement brouillees. Les conservateurs s'inquietent et le traitent d'imposteur. Les annees 1980 sont pourtant signees Gaultier: festives, vinylisees, metissees, gays. Le virage des annees 1990 souligne son aptitude au changement. Le pop-styliste veut ses galons de createur Haute Couture: il les obtient en habillant les icones du show-biz - Madonna lui confie ses tenues de scene. Last but not least, on lui confie la maison Hermes. Peut-on sans renier un anti-conformisme visceral dessiner des tailleurs blanc casse pour la bourgeoise du faubourg Saint-Honore ? Il peut. Parallelement, l'enfant terrible de la mode s'offre un luxueux siege: l'Avenir du Proletariat, rue Saint Martin, veritable palais de maharadja post-moderne. Les affaires florissantes du sigle JPG justifient une telle debauche: 120 personnes travaillent pour lui et son chiffre s'eleve a 30 millions d'euros. Peu a peu, il s'impose comme l'anti-Karl Lagerfeld: la mode n'est pas une chose serieuse... Rayonnant, attachant, mediatique mais pudique et discret, on croit tout savoir de lui, mais c'est un leurre. Son compagnon Francis Menuge meurt du sida en 1990, la blessure ne se referme pas. Il touche a tout: cinema (Besson, Almodovar), scene, arts plastiques et offre meme a la Fondation Cartier une exposition boulangere faite de robes Couture faconnees en baguettes de pain ! Idolatre par la communaute gay, adore des elegantes, parfumant la planete avec un jus enserre dans un petit buste de Barbie decapitee, le bad boy platine qui ne se prend pas au serieux - label rarissime dans la tribu Couture - est beaucoup plus qu'un createur. Du lancement en 1983 du boy toy, ce marin new-look serre dans sa mariniere rayee marine et blanche, en passant par le scandale des hommes en jupe et des corsets coniques pour les filles. Cette biographie raconte l'itineraire d'un enfant cingle, d'un autodidacte shoote a la variete, d'un couturier ready-made, d'un self-made man du falbala, ne a Arcueil, banlieue triste.

About the Author :
Elizabeth Gouslan est journaliste. Elle a publie Ava, la femme qui aimait les hommes (Robert Laffont, 2012) et Jean-Paul Gaultier, punk sentimental (Grasset, 2010).


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Product Details
  • ISBN-13: 9782246740995
  • Publisher: Grasset
  • Publisher Imprint: Grasset
  • Language: French
  • ISBN-10: 2246740991
  • Publisher Date: 06 Jan 2010
  • Binding: Digital (delivered electronically)


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