Fascinated by the meals possible on rolling trains and zooming jets, the symposium included analyses of the history and culture of dining in mobile spaces. Containing papers on diverse topics, including a study of luxury and historical imperialism, then moving to the food served on twentieth-century Dutch airplanes, and the issues of safe guarding with gender differences in twenty-first-century Indian train compartments, the studies encompassed all kinds of travel foods, both of exploration and nomadic life, from pemmican and penguin meat to achar and qurut.
Table of Contents:
Contents
Foreword, Mark McWilliams 9
Dietary Advice for Travellers from the Mid-Sixteenth Century to Early Seventeenth Century with Two Test Cases: Michel de Montaigne and Fynes Moryson, Ken Albala 11
We Are Open, Says the City, Tamar Babuadze 19
Urban Nomads and Vagabond Food: Eating Away from the Table in Nineteenth- Century France, Janet Beizer 29
When the Lord Eats Away from the Table: Outdoor Food in Indian Gaudiya Vaishnavism, Tanushree Bhowmik 43
Cunard and Collins: Portable Food and Evolving Notions of Customer Service at Sea, 1840-1880, Andrea Broomfield 55
From ‘Peanut Weddings’ to ‘Beef Stands’: The Socio-Culinary History of Chicago’s ‘Italian Beef’, Anthony F. Buccini 67
Achar: An Unexpected Stowaway on the Ships of the Dutch East India Company Kathleen Burke 77
Food for Travel, Travel for Food: The Story of Ekiben, Voltaire Cang 88
The Raw and the Disordered: Portable Feasts, Blood, and Raw Meat Salads in Contemporary Political Movements in Thailand, Nattha Chuenwattana and Chonlatorn Wongrussame 99
Savour the Flavour: A Portable History of Instant Coffee, Julia Fine 107
Mobile Gastronomies: A Case Study of Food on Wheels Culture in Hyderabad, South India, Kashyapi Ghosh and V. Vamshi Krishna Reddy 117
An Exploration of Food Mobility through the Cultural Practice of Koseli in Contemporary Nepal, Binti Gurung 127
Fair Food to Walk With, Peter Hertzmann 134
Dispatches from the Chicken Sandwich Wars, Michael Johnson 145
Istanbul’s Portable Food Practices: The Case of Dolma, Pırıl Kadırgan 156
Provisioning for Adventures: The Meanings of Paddington Bear’s Marmalade Sandwiches, Laura Kitchings 163
Serving the Global Nation: Menus from the Royal Dutch Airlines, Charlotte Kleyn and Aimée Plukker 172
‘No kind of food? Just rubbish?’: Food Options and Family Meals of Visitors to Canadian Prisons, Else Marie Knudsen 183
Eating in Public in Antiquity: Honorable or Obscene?, Joshua Lovinger 194
Food for the Final Journey: Feeding the Soul in Hindu Death Rituals, Priya Mani 206
Picnicking in Iran: From Cemeteries to Ski Slopes, Caves, Traffic Circles, and Beaches, Nader Mehravari 217
Food on the Move: Commensality in an Indian Train Compartment, Shirin Mehrotra 231
An Army Marches on Its Stomach: Portable Foods in War and Peace, Johanna Mendelson Forman 240
Going to the Gahambar: Tradition and Invention in Parsi Community Feasts, Meher Mirza 251
The Perils and Promises of Portability: Sweets and Snacks in Modernizing Japan, Tatsuya Mitsuda 261
A Rational Approach: Portable and Practical Eating ‘Beyond the Seas’, Jacqui Newling 272
Hoosh, Dogs, and Seal Meat: The Role of Food in the Race to the South Pole, Diana Noyce 284
The ‘tacos de canasta’ (Basket Tacos) in the University: An Example of the Close Relationship between Informality and Mobility, Ayari G. Pasquier Merino and M. Fernanda Estrada González 296
From the Steppe to Space: The Portable Power of Qurut, Simi Rezai-Ghassemi 306
Cooking Summer by the Beach: Rulebreaking, Modernity, and Wellness Policies in Three 1960s Egyptian Cookbooks, Salma Serry 311
Pemmican: An Ideal Trail Food, C. Thomas Shay 321
‘The Clever Dining Car Conductor’: Creating a Luxury Dining Experience on the Move in Britain, 1879-1948, Chloe Shields 331
Connected Food: Preserving Traditional Food Practices via Portable Foods, Sevgi Mutlu Sirakova 337
Portable Poetic Commensality: Reflections on the Use of Food Language in Ancient Israel’s Pilgrimage Songs (Psalms 120–134), Michelle A. Stinson 349
Travelling Silver for Those Not to the Manor Born: Old Sheffield Plate and Electro-plated Silver in Travel Equipage and Cutlery, from 1730 to the Belle Epoque, Carolyn Tillie 357
Food for Walking: On the Camino Real de Tierra Adentro, Jaime Iram Vargas Barrientos 368