About the Book
Please note that the content of this book primarily consists of articles available from Wikipedia or other free sources online. Pages: 85. Chapters: Flood, Tsunami, Gravity wave, Wake, Cnoidal wave, Airy wave theory, Storm surge, Rogue wave, List of floods, Dispersion, Mild-slope equation, Megatsunami, List of rogue waves, Radiation stress, Wind wave, Stokes drift, Tsunamis in lakes, Boussinesq approximation, Seiche, Capillary wave, Clapotis, Flash flood, Equatorial waves, Wind wave model, Wave radar, Morison equation, Breaking wave, Shallow water equations, Wave shoaling, Internal wave, Wave making resistance, Wave turbulence, Ocean dynamics, Significant wave height, Infragravity wave, Surf break, Hull speed, Extratropical storm surge, Ursell number, Swell, Keulegan-Carpenter number, Hundred-year wave, Sneaker wave, Wave-current interaction, Meteotsunami, Douglas Sea Scale, List of waves named after people, Undertow, 1934 Muroto typhoon, Draupner wave, Bow wave, Wave base, Edge wave, Artificial wave, Cross sea, Waves and shallow water, Wave-piercing, Coriolis-Stokes force. Excerpt: In fluid dynamics, a cnoidal wave is a nonlinear and exact periodic wave solution of the Korteweg-de Vries equation. These solutions are in terms of the Jacobi elliptic function cn, which is why they are coined cnoidal waves. They are used to describe surface gravity waves of fairly long wavelength, as compared to the water depth. The cnoidal wave solutions were derived by Korteweg and de Vries, in their 1895 paper in which they also propose their dispersive long-wave equation, now known as the Korteweg-de Vries equation. In the limit of infinite wavelength, the cnoidal wave becomes a solitary wave. The Benjamin-Bona-Mahony equation has improved short-wavelength behaviour, as compared to the Korteweg-de Vries equation, and is another uni-directional wave equation with cnoidal wave solutions. Further, since the Korteweg-de Vries equation is an approximation to the Boussinesq equations...
