Guide to Taxidermy

This historic book may have numerous typos and missing text. Purchasers can download a free scanned copy of the original book (without typos) from the publisher. Not indexed. Not illustrated. 1908 edition. Excerpt: ...water, being sure that all parts are held beneath the surface (a heavy board floating on the surface of the water is the best means of keeping a skin entirely under). The next morning it will be limp and can be put into a pail of luke-warm water, rubbing any places that have not become thoroughly soft, before doing so. After soaking a couple of hours more, squeeze out as much water as you can, spread the skin on your bench and thoroughly apply arsenical soap to the skin side, and it is ready to put on. Put the skin in position, pull it in place around the horns and take a stitch back of each, to hold the skin in place, using waxed strong twine and a large three-cornered needle. If you prefer, you can make a hole with your awl on each edge of the skin where it comes together, and wire them together with copper wire. Either method is equally good and we use one about as much as the other. You will need only two stitches, or, at the, most, four, since the skin along the back of the neck is to be tacked to the neck-piece, using inch flat-headed wire nails. (This should be tacked about every inch along both edges of the cut). The skin is then drawn evenly down and tacked on the edge of the neck board pt intervals of about one inch. The ears are each to have a piece of sheet tin in them, cut to the shape and a trifle smaller than the ear. This is inserted between the skin on the back of the ear and the cartilage and can be put in place at this time from the outside or, perhaps it will be better for the novice, before the skin is put on the head at all. The nostrils should be tucked in the cavities made for them and a small wad of cotton pushed in each to keep the skin in position. The upper, then the under lips must be tucked into their recesses and...