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The Tyranny of Elegance: Consumer Cosmopolitanism in the Era of Goethe

The Tyranny of Elegance: Consumer Cosmopolitanism in the Era of Goethe


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About the Book

In an intersection of fashion and literature, the popularity of Johann Wolfgang von Goethe's "The Sorrows of Young Werther" provoked hundreds - perhaps thousands - of young Germans to purchase and wear the blue and yellow suit of the novel's protagonist. Their actions not only showed their affinity with Werther and with other wearers of the blue and yellow, but also elevated cultural identification over more traditional elements of social standing, such as employment, education, region, or family. Even aristocratic Prussians forsook their riding garb for Werther's rustic suit. In this study, the author examines the coming of bourgeois fashion (mode) and luxury consumerism (luxus) to 18th-century Germany. The liberation symbolized by Werther's suit was illusory, he explains, as fashion itself quickly became a force for conformity as rigid as the sumptuary laws - such as clothing ordinances - of earlier centuries. Purdy examines the extraordinary influence of Frederick Bertuch's "Mode Journal", which chronicled in obsessive detail the clothing and decorative trends in London, Paris, and other European capitals. He traces the elite reaction against fashion that followed the example of the King, Frederick the Great, who dressed poorly - in worn and even dirty clothes - to separate himself from the francophile fastidiousness of absolutist armies.

About the Author :
Daniel L. Purdy is assistant professor in the Department of Germanic Languages at Columbia University.

Review :

"A fascinating and innovative contribution to fashion scholarship." -- Brigit Tautz, Colloquia Germanica

"A ground-breaking and fascinating book... Splendidly written, well informed, and superbly argued, [Purdy's] book introduces the reader into the microphysics of cultural change in the historical realm of fashion in a way that can be described only as fascinating and exemplary." -- Holger A. Pausch, Seminar

"Demonstrates many of the best elements of contemporary cultural history... It shows that the discourse of fashion and the design of clothing can serve as richly interwoven indicators about attitudes toward the body, class, power, and self." -- Ruth Dawson, German Studies Review


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Product Details
  • ISBN-13: 9780801858741
  • Publisher: Johns Hopkins University Press
  • Publisher Imprint: Johns Hopkins University Press
  • Height: 229 mm
  • Returnable: N
  • Weight: 640 gr
  • ISBN-10: 0801858747
  • Publisher Date: 11 Sep 1998
  • Binding: Hardback
  • Language: English
  • Sub Title: Consumer Cosmopolitanism in the Era of Goethe
  • Width: 152 mm


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The Tyranny of Elegance: Consumer Cosmopolitanism in the Era of Goethe
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