The Epic History of Macaroni and Cheese: From Ancient Rome to Modern America(Arts and Traditions of the Table: Perspectives on Culinary History)

Today, macaroni and cheese is the ultimate comfort food, a staple of weeknight dinners, family gatherings, and Soul Food restaurants. Humble though the dish may seem, its history is filled with surprising twists and turns. Renaissance cardinals and popes dined on elaborate pasta-and-cheese concoctions laced with costly spices. In the eighteenth century, wealthy young Englishmen made macaroni a symbol of continental sophistication. Black women cooks, whose contribution has long been overshadowed, played a crucial role in establishing the dish as an American tradition from the nation's founding through the Civil Rights Movement. This book is a delectable history of macaroni and cheese, tracing an extraordinary journey of cultural exchange and social change. Karima Moyer-Nocchi reveals the religious, political, and industrial forces that forged its evolution alongside stories of the unsung figures who shaped the dish as we know it today: enslaved cooks who preserved and adapted traditions, immigrant chefs who introduced new variations, and practical homemakers looking to nourish their families with an affordable meal. She emphasizes the adaptability of macaroni and cheese, which in different times has served as both an indulgence on the elite table and sustenance to those struggling to survive, crossing borders, social classes, and cultural divides. Deeply researched and rich with enticing details, this book uncovers the creativity and resilience that brought a beloved food to our tables. The Epic History of Macaroni and Cheese also shares centuries of recipes-from ancient Roman authors to celebrity chefs, reworked for modern kitchens-that provide a hands-on portal to experience the evolution of this iconic dish.

Table of Contents:
Foreword, by Paula Johnson Introduction 1. Digging In: Ancient Antecedents 2. Macaroni on Papal Plates 3. The French Connection and English Reflection 4. Jefferson, Hemings, and the Macaroni Mythologies 5. The New World Order: Macaroni’s Triangular Transformation 6. Pasta, Power, and Progress: From the Elite to the Everyday 7. Americans Vie for Their Piece of the Pie 8. Macaroni’s American Soul: Bringing It Home Acknowledgments Notes Bibliography Index

About the Author :
Karima Moyer-Nocchi is a culinary historian specializing in Italian food who teaches at the University of Siena. She is the author of Chewing the Fat: An Oral History of Italian Foodways from Fascism to Dolce Vita (2015) and The Eternal Table: A Cultural History of Food in Rome (2019). Paula J. Johnson is curator of food history at the Smithsonian National Museum of American History.

Review :
Brilliant, indulgent, and impeccably researched. Karima Moyer-Nocchi has crafted the definitive cultural biography of macaroni and cheese, tracing its journey across continents and through centuries with the precision of a historian and the warmth of a devoted cook. As a food scientist who’s never outgrown my love for this dish, I savored every insight into how something so simple became so culturally profound. Whether your interest is scholarly or purely gastronomic, every page in this book immensely satisfies. Whether you are a fan of the creamy béchamel-infused mac and cheese that I remember from my childhood or a blue-box kid, The Epic History of Macaroni and Cheese has something for you. From the Decameron through contemporary African American versions, this book details the journey of this international and yet oh-so-American dish. (And yes, Thomas Jefferson and James Hemings do make an appearance!) It is a compelling and informative read. As an African American from the South—and a lifelong mac and cheese lover—I found that Karima Moyer-Nocchi completely upended everything I thought I knew about this dish. In The Epic History of Macaroni and Cheese, she methodically traces its roots, debunks myths, and reveals its true cultural importance across the centuries. Finally, the true story about mac and cheese! Karima Moyer-Nocchi's writing is both entertaining and erudite; this book is a must read for pasta lovers everywhere. At a time when culinary history can get as twisted as fusilli, Karima Moyer-Nocchi provides much-needed scholarship and storytelling. The Epic History of Macaroni and Cheese deftly and thoroughly sorts out fact from fiction about this beloved dish, and for that, macaroni and cheese lovers like me are grateful!