Survival Kit: Fashion

Balenciaga: According to Jean Cocteau, "fashion dies young." But Balenciaga is an exception. He became the most creative couturier of his time, with an unequaled body of work that balanced the simple and the measured with an eccentric, abstract boldness. His Spanish roots combined the austere with a beautiful baroque violence. In the history of haute couture, Balenciaga remains the ultimate designer. Lanvin: Jeanne Lanvin, one of the great couturiers of the early twentieth century, gave up her career as a milliner when her clients began to demand copies of the dresses she had made for her younger sister and daughter. These youthful mother-and-daughter outfits made Lanvin famous. Her designs blurred the distinctions between women and young girls with fluid silhouette, flattering both a growing shape as well as one approaching middle age. Lanvin also created the very feminine and popular "robes de style" and romantic dresses. Her work is characterized by fine embroidery, superb craftsmanship, and harmonious colors-among them the "Lanvin blue," to which she gave her name. Philip Treacy: Since their first meeting on a fashion shoot in 1989 when Treacy was a student at the Royal College of Art, Isabella Blow has been his staunchest supporter and a constant source of inspiration. After leaving the RCA, he lived and worked out of the basement of the basement of her London house for three years. Many of his most surreal and sculptural hats were made for her. "Issy never said 'You've gone too far'" told Treacy. "She always said, 'You haven't gone far enough'". This book is the catalog of the London Design Museum's exhibit, which included the "Ship", an astonishingly realistic replica of an 18th-century French ship with rigging made from miniature buttons, and the rose damask "Pope" after the papal hat. Also featured is the "Castle" inspired by Blow's ancestral home. "Gilbert and George" is a fantastical concoction of pink and green lacquered ostrich feathers. "Horns" is a black satin replica of the horns of Blow's flock of ancient Soays sheep. The show included photographs by Steven Meisel, David LaChapelle, Jurgen Teller, and Mario Testino of Isabella Blow wearing Treacy's hats. Roger Vivier: The stiletto heel was created by Roger Vivier in 1954, its audaciously plunging lines designed to complement Christian Dior's COLLECTIONS. Vivier was also the man who designed incredibly flattering and sexy vinyl thigh-high boots, as well as low-heel, square-toe pumps that lent urban Amazons their confident stride. His inspired innovations radicalized traditional techniques, as he mixed fabulous embroideries with clear plastic. Vivier persuaded leading manufacturers to accommodate his creative whims, without ever losing sight of his classical foundations. Known as the King of the Heel, this master of frivolity was always one step ahead of fashion.

About the Author :
Balenciaga: Marie-Andre Jouve is the co-author of Balenciaga, with Jacqueline Demornex, for the Editions du Regard. She has been in charge of the Balenciaga archives since 1980 and has participated in numerous exhibitions - in Tokyo and at the Textile Museum in Lyon in 1980, at the Fashion Institute in New York City in 1986, at the National Gallery of Melbourne in 1992, at the Mona Bismarck Foundation in Paris in 1994, at the Costume Museum of Barcelona, at the Balenciaga Foundation in Getaria. Lanvin: Elisabeth Barille is a French author of several novels. She is also an editor-at-large for prestigious travel magazines. Her interests range from India to Russia. She also writes about fashion and Assouline published her book about Coty, the renowned perfume maker. Philip Treacy: Isabella Blow was one of the world's most influential creative directors. She worked for several magazines including American Vogue, Visionaire, The Face, and Italian Vogue.Roger Vivier: Colombe Pringle started her career working for cult French TV program, Dim, Dam, Dom. She then was a journalist at Elle, Vogue, and L'Express. She is currently the eitor-in-chief for Point de Vue.